Classic S88-Blue Logic Reset ROM 300

File: Classic_S88-Blue_Logic_Reset_ROM_300.pdf

Classic S88-Blue Logic Reset

File: Classic_S88-Blue_Logic_Reset.pdf

Classic S88-Blue Logic Reset ROM 230

File: Classic_S88-Blue_Logic_Reset_ROM_230.pdf

Classic S88-Carriage Calibration

File: Classic_S88-Carriage_Calibration.pdf

Classic S88-Dimensional Calibration

File: Classic_S88-Dimensional_Calibration.pdf

Classic S88-Disassembly Procedure

File: Classic_S88-Disassembly_Procedure.pdf

Classic S88-Installing Pinch Wheel Assy

File: Classic_S88-Installing_Pinch_Wheel_Assy.pdf

Classic S88-Plotter Port Test

File: Classic_S88-Plotter_Port_Test.pdf

Classic S88-Replacing Wheel On Pinch Wheel Assy

File: Classic_S88-Replacing_Wheel_On_Pinch_Wheel_Assy.pdf

Classic S88-Troubleshooting Error Conditions

File: Classic_S88-Troubleshooting_Error_Conditions.pdf

Legacy COM Port Test

Suggestions for testing serial COM ports on legacy equipment.
File: Misc-Com_Port_Test-25_and_9_Pin.pdf

Ioline Syntax Guide 2008

Comprehensive list of all Ioline syntax commands for developers writing drivers for Ioline machines (except CrystalPress).
File: Ioline_Syntax_Manual_2008.pdf

Official HPGL Language Guide (1996)

The official HP/GL language guide from Hewlett Packard, last published in 1996. Contains the complete language description although only a subset of the language is supported by Ioline (see the Ioline Syntax Guide above for details). [ref link]
File: HPGL2-RTL_ReferenceGuide_5961-3526_540pages_Sep96.pdf

Ioline HP/GL Driver Guide

Guide to help developers write drivers to output HPGL formatted vector images for Ioline machines.
File: ioHPGLguide.pdf

Upgrading Ioline Firmware

Directions for updating firmware in Ioline machines made after the late 1990s.
File: inst_firmware.pdf

Terminal Communication w/ Ioline Equipment

Directions for setting up and using a terminal program to communicate with Ioline machines.
File: terminal_comm.pdf

Power Entry Module Old vs. New

Visual guide to power entry wiring layout differences 1995-present.
File: Power_Entry_Module-Old_vs_New.pdf

Classic / Super 88 User Guide

Assembly and setup directions for Classic & Super 88 series cutters.
File: Classic / Super 88 User Guide
Revision: 3
Posted: May 11, 1999
Size: 330 kb

Classic / Super 88 Service Manual

File: Classic / Super 88 Service Manual
Revision: 0
Posted: February 11, 2003
Size: 470 kb

Classic / Super 88 Service Manual Appendices

File: Classic / Super 88 Service Manual Appendices
Revision: 0
Posted: February 11 , 2003
Size: 3.5 MB

Legacy Utility Software

Many software applications for unsupported Ioline equipment, including past versions of the Control Center, are available in the Legacy Software section of the support website.

Cutting quality problems.

If you are experiencing problems with the knife assembly, where the blade is piercing through the vinyl or the blade seems to have a “stitching” effect while cutting, please follow the suggestions provided below to assure the knife assembly is set up properly.

Installing a Blade: In your accessory kit you will find a blade and a knife assebly with an adjustable foot. The blades are sharp and brittle and the blade tips can easily chip or break. Be very careful when you handle the blades.

• Remove the adjustable foot from the shank of the knife by unscrewing the foot (counterclockwise).
• Slide the blade into the knife until you feel it lock in place. The blade should spin freely.

  CAUTION: Do not use a hard surface to push the blade into the knife; doing so may damage the blade.

• Reinstall the adjustable foot onto the knife shank. Screw the foot onto the shank (clockwise). Tighten the foot until the blade tip protrudes slightly, (then back it off until the tip is barely exposed).
• Slip the knife flange into the corner of the slot in the carriage jaw.
• Gently tighten the carriage thumb screw until the knife is secure in the jaw. Do not overtighten the thumb screw. After you install a new blade, you should always make sure the blade extension is adjusted properly and the force setting is correct.

Test Cut: Perform this procedure to determine if you need to make blade force or blade extension adjustments. By examining the test cut, you will be able to tell if the blade is cutting too deeply or not deeply enough. Blade adjustment is a two-step process. Adjust the blade extension first and then adjust the cutting force. When the blade is correctly adjusted, your Super 88/ Classic plotter will produce consistently clean cuts at the lightest possible force setting.

To perform a Test Cut when you install a new blade or a new media roll:

• • Load and align the media.
  • From the Control Center, select a force setting range from 50 grams minimum to 200 grams maximum. You may need to increase the maximum setting if you are using extremely thick media, such as sandblast.
  • Turn your Super 88 front panel force knob clockwise to the maximum setting (200 grams).
  • Make sure the tip of the blade does not protrude beyond the face of the foot.
  • Make sure your Super 88 is in Stop mode, with the red light on.
  • Press the Test Cut key. Your Super 88 will cut a test design into the media. The pattern is a circle within a small square. Your Super 88 can also generate a larger test design (7″ x 16″), if you press the Repeat key and the Test Cut key simultaneously.

Note: You do not have to reposition the media or the carriage. The carriage will automatically move to a new position before the Super 88 performs another test cut. Study the quality of the cut. Is the cut too shallow? If the blade is not cutting all the way through the media, turn the foot counterclockwise 1/8th of a turn. After the blade extension is adjusted correctly, gradually reduce the cutting force by turning the force knob counterclockwise. Generate a new test cut for every new (lower) force setting. When a test cut is difficult to weed, increase the cutting force just enough to produce consistently clean output.

Studio 8, Super 88, Classic 24 under CASmate®.Problem: Parts of the job shifting within the plot or plotting incorrectly using CASmate®.

These problems most likely stem from a communication problem between CASmate® and the Ioline plotter. CASmate® recommends checking the following order:

• • Sorting – Make sure the SORT command is turned OFF in the Plotmate Dialog box. If you want to sort the file, you should select the Automatic Ordering command located under the Edit, Arrange menu option.
  • Check Config.sys to make sure FILES is equal to 50 or more.
  • Remove any temporary files in the TEMP directory.
  • If running Windows® 3.1 or 3.11, go into the Control Panel, select Port, highlight the port the plotter is connected to, then click settings. Make sure Handshaking is set to Hardware and not Xon/Xoff. If you are running Windows® 95, go into the Control Panel, System, Device Manager, highlight the port, then click Properties. Click on Port Settings tab and make sure Flow Control is set to Hardware. You should also click Advanced and turn OFF “Use Fifo Buffers“.
  • In CASmate®, select Setup from the MISC menu into the Setup in CASmate®, highlight the driver, click Communication and change from Hardware to Polling.
  • While in the Setup menu you can switch from plotting via the Job Manager to Plot Direct.
  • If you are using Windows® 3.1 or 3.11, CASmate® recommends replacing the COMM.DRV in the Windows\System directory with the one on the CASmate® Disk #1 or the CASmate® CD (either in the root directory of the CD or the OTHER directory). If you are running Windows® 95, CASmate® recommends the new Job Manager in #8 before replacing the COMM.DRV.
  • If you are running CASmate® 6.0 – 6.04, you can replace the JOBMAN.EXE located in the CASWIN directory. This file is in the OTHER directory on the newest CASmate® CD.

PLEASE DIRECT FURTHER QUERIES TO CASMATE® SUPPORT

Plotter COM port test.

If you do not have the loop-back diagnostic module, complete the following steps:

• • Turn off your plotter.
  • Remove the serial cable from the back of the plotter.
  • Using paper clips or short lengths of wire, jumper pin 2 to 3 and also pin 4 to 5. Make sure you get the wires in far enough to make a good connection. The pin holes are labeled on the com port. The top row is 1 through 13, from right to left.
  • Turn on the plotter while you hold down the Test Cut key on the keypad. Continue holding down Test Cut key until the plotter beeps and the light flashes three times. This places the plotter in the diagnostic mode.
  • Press any Arrow key on the plotter keypad to transmit and receive characters. Verify that the plotter beeps and the light flashes each time an arrow key is pressed.
  • Turn off the plotter after the test. This will take the plotter out of the diagnostic mode.
  • Remove the jumpers from the serial port.

  If this test passes, then the serial port of the plotter is communicating properly. However, if you continue having problems communicating with the plotter, you may need to verify that the cable is in good condition and the COM port on your computer is working properly.

No Communication with the computer.

If your plotter can’t stablish communications with your computer, please follow these steps to help identify which of your system’s components may be the source of the problem. The real key in nailing down the problem is this process of elimination. Removal of each separate component from the list of key variables, gives you the clues necessary to determine the actual cause of the communication problem.

• Make sure the serial cable is the correct one for the plotter. Look to make sure it is not damaged.
• Make sure the cable is connected properly to one of your computer’s serial ports. The Ioline plotter can’t work on a parallel port.
• Make sure the plotter is in the READY mode with the green light on.
• Make sure the correct communications protocol is being used by your computer. The mode command statement for a PC is MODE COM2:96,N,8,1,P (If you are using COM2, otherwise replace 2 by the number of the COM port the plotter is connected).

  If available, try another COM port. If unsuccesful obtaining access to a second COM port, try another computer.

• Make sure the correct driver is selected in the plotter Setup Menu in your design program.
• If operating Control Center under the Windows® environment or using a Windows®-based application, try switching to the DOS® version of the Control Center to send your file. If the machine works in DOS® then you know the plotter, COM port and cable are operational.
• If using a Windows® program application, try saving a file to disk and using the DOS® COPY command to output the file to the plotter. For example at the DOS® prompt:

  A) Type: Copy filename.plt com2
  B) Press: Enter

  If the plotter does not start plotting, it means one of the following conditions exists:

• Plotter is not connected to that port. Consult your computer manual.
• Ploter is not configured correctly. Consult your software manual.
• Plotter cable is bad. Try another RS232 cable.
• Try port you have the plotter connected to is bad. Try another port.
• The plotter’s port is bad. Note:Refer to the User Guide for the serial test procedure.
• If you have a bus mouse, check that the IRQ setting is not on three (3) or four (4), but set to five (5). The dip switches are usually right in the middle of the bus mouse interface card. If you look at the center of the mouse interface card, you will see a set of pins labeled 2, 3, 4, and 5. In most cases when you purchase a bus mouse, the default IRQ setttings is three, which is the SAME as COM2. If you have your plotter configured to COM2, you will have problems with the mouse and the plotter. We recommend that you always set the bus mouse to IRQ5.
• Many software manufacturers recommend the removal of a fax or modem card when using their products. Ioline suggest customers contact the appropriate software company for advice about custom computer configurations.

Registration shift (media skewing).

We have found that good tracking is as much a factor of technique as is one of hardware. Feeding material off the roll, using proper acceleration and speed, optimizing your plots, and implementing alignment guides will give you excellent tracking. If persistent tracking problems exist, please check the following:

• Check the media; is one side heavier than the other? Variations in media quality will affect the performance of the machine. Buckling vinyl can also cause skewing. Make sure the vinyl is feeding smoothly.
• Closely inspect the chartwheels, look for uneven wear or damage. Foreign material like paint, paper, and dirt, or flat spots from prolonged chartwheels exposure to clamp down positioning while the machine is idle, will contribute to media shift.
• Check the four grit shaft set screws, 2 in the center, one on each side. Make sure they are tight. These screws may loosen during shipment or after excessive use.
• Inspect the grit shaft. Look for any foreign material, damage, or unusual wear.
• Check for square shaft side play. There should be none.

To cut long signs it is necessary for the sign cutter to be properly calibrated and to make sure the pinch wheels are correctly spaced. Additionally, some system settings must be adjusted to achieve the best results. Use the Ioline Control Center to make system changes. When cutting long signs, it becomes increasingly important for the material to be aligned properly and for the settings to be properly adjusted. These suggestions can help you produce fine quality long signs.

• A large clean area to work. Sign shops can be “hostile” environment for modern electronics and computers. Make sure the carpet or floor is clean and clear of any obstacles. Pull your sign cutter out from the wall so the material can move freely back and forth. It is crucial to have enough room to work.
• Use a Stand. The use of a stand or cradle takes advantage of the sign cutter’s platten design. When the material is draped over the platen it can benefit from the material’s natural tendency to curl downward.
• Build a Material Slide. Cut two cardboard pieces the width of the stand large enough to lean against the sign cutter’s stand legs. This prevents the material from going under the machine and getting buckled with material from the other side.
• Center the Material Roll. Place the roll of material in the center of the material cradle or rollers. Make sure the roll is tightly wrapped and even along the sides.
• Load the Material Straight. To properly load and use the material, we recommend two approaches. First, if you are using a new roll, the best method is (afer completing Step 4) to simply bring the material up and through the space under the pinch wheels. Gently pull the material forward about two feet by grasping the center of the material. Clamp the pinch wheels by lowering the pinch wheel lever on the right side of your sign cutter. Run the material using the up arrow keys about four feet to assure it runs straight. Second, if your roll is very light or loose, the “typewriter” technique works well. Place the material roll on the cradle or support rollers, centering it behind the machine. Bring the material up and through the space under the pinch wheels. Pull about three feet (one meter) out from the roll. Let the material hang loose in front of the machine. Next, roll out a service loop of material behind the machine. Standing in front of the plotter, reach in and grab the service loop. Pull the material towards you, creating a loop. Pull the material tight and make certain the edges line up with the original piece you pulled through the pinch wheels of the machine. Now, clamp down the pinch wheel lever. Run the material using the up arrow keys about four feet to assure it runs straight.
• Lower Acceleration. Using the Ioline Control Center program, set the acceleration to 0.5 g’s or less. Lower acceleration will help with the overall accuracy, especially in the transition between frames.
• Speed. Set the Speed knob to 50 percent or less. Moving the material at a lower speed helps to keep it more stable and prevents it from kinking or buckling.
• Let your software help you. Use the automatic ordering or contour ordering feature in our design software (some software programs automatically handle this process). In other words, reduce the number of back and forth and side to side movements the job has to endure before the file is completed. Why this is important? The paper or other type of backing (as well as the vinyl) gets weaker as the machine completes the job. The more complex the file, the more difficult the problem. The more the signmaker can do to control these variables, the better results will be.
• User the Paneling feature in your design software. Paneling lets you restrict the length of any x-axis move. We suggest a panel size of 10 to 20 inches. With most signmaking software, the paneling feature allows you to place the panel between characters.

Plotter Calibration.

After replacing the logic board, the first thing to do is to reset the plotter calibration. To accomplish this, turn on the plotter while pressing down the UP arrow key. When the red light comes one, release the up arrow key and press Start Point.

There are two ways to calibrate the plotter:

• • In order to remove the bottom cover to replace the logic board you have to remove the right and left end covers. Before you put the plotter back together, take a look at the inside right end plate of the plotter.
  • There, you should find a label which will provide you with the X- and Y-axis factory default calibration settings. Write these numbers down, and move to Step # 3.
  • If you don’t find the label with the calibration settings, put the plotter back together, turn it on as stated at the beginning of this note, and load some media, at least 42″ x 22″.
  • With the plotter online and a green light illuminated on the keypad, open the Ioline Control Center. Once you are in the Control Center, select Calibrate from the menu bar.
  • Select Calibration Cut. The plotter then will draw four ruled lines: 40 inches (101.6 cm) and 20 inches (50.8 cm) wide. For sign cutters with 40″ width or wider, the calibration plot measures 28″ wide by 40″ long.
  • Measure the length (X-axis) and the width (Y-axis) in either inches or centimeters and record the results.
  • Enter the measure values and select SET CALIBRATION.
  • Your sign cutter will now calibrate itself, and the new CALIBRATION SETTING will be displayed.
  • Click DONE when you are finished.

  Only use

Reset Factory

to restore original factory calibration settings.

Suggested Settings.

Media	Force	Speed	Blade/Offset
1 mil Rubylith/Amberlith	40-60	med	45º / 15 mil offset
1 mil Lacquer Adhering Stencil	80-100	max	45º / 15 mil offset
1 mil water soluble stencil	40-60	med	45º / 15 mil offset
2 mil cast vinyl	120-130	max	45º / 15 mil offset
2 mil metalized polyester	100-140	max	45º / 15 mil ofset
3 mil calendered vinyl	130-150	max	45º / 15 mil ofset
4 mil stencil vinyl	200-220	min	45º / 15 mil ofset
Flock	100-200	min	Cobra Blade
5 mil Engineering Grade Reflective. Comment: Use only fresh, pliable media	250-300	min	45º / 15 mil ofset
7 mil static cling vinyl  Comment: thin paper release linear designed for die/hand cutting only	Not Recommended	N/A	N/A
15 mil Flock	175-200	min.	60º / 47 mil ofset
18 mil Sandblast Stencil (Anchor 128 hand-cut)  Comment: Thin paper release liner designed for hand cutting only.	Not Recommended	N/A	N/A
31 mil Sandblast Stencil (Anchor 117)  Comment: 30 mil overcut	240	min	60º / 47 mil offset
36 mil Sandblast Stencil (Anchor 153)  Comment: 30 mil overcut 50 mil offset	150-200	min	Cobra Blade
40 mil Sandblast Stencil (Anchor 120 hand-cut)  Comment: thin blue release liner designed for hand cutting only	Not Recommended	N/A	N/A

Cutting Small Characters.

For cutting small characters or intricate detail in various material, it is necessary for your sign cutter to be calibrated properly and to make sure the pinch wheels are spaced correctly. Also, some of the system settings should be adjusted to achieve more accurate detailed cutting. This is done by making changes in the Ioline Control Center and by adjusting the dial controls on the front panel. The following is a list of adjustments that should be made:

• Lower Force. The lowest knife force possible is the best for small, detailed cutting. Start by making test cuts with one quarter force. Gradually increase the force until the vinyl is completely cut.
• Slower Speed. The Speed knob should be set halfway or less.
• Foot Adjustment. (Optional tool for the Classic 24). After setting the lowest cutting force, adjust the foot downward until the cut is not complete, then back it up just enough to ge a complete cut. Since some force is applied to the foot, you may need to slightly increase cutting force. When the plot is adjusted properly, the blade tip should just cut through the material.
• Lower Acceleration. When cutting Rubylith or Amberlith, the “acceleration” should be set to 0.1 g’s. For all other material the “acceleration” should be set to 0.5 g’s.
• Minimum Angle. This is listed in the Control Center under the “blade steering arc” heading. The minimum angle should be set at 0 degrees. You can always play with this number and increase it until the test cuts are acceptable.
• Overcut. This should be set to 0 mils. If weeding becomes difficult at corners, increase overcut by one mil at a time until weeding is easier. If the material has incomplete cutting not at the corners, a little more force may be needed.
• Offset. Usually the offset listed for the blade is used as the offset in the Control Center. For very small characters, tiny manufacturing variances among blades can make a difference. Check this by cutting small characters with sharp turns, i.e. the letter “N”. With our standard 45-degree, .015 inch offset blade, you can try several tests using different offset values, say 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 mils, then pick the value with the sharpest, cleanest results.

How to Pounce (not available with the Classic).

Materials needed:

Pounce Paper (Note: We recommend 20lb. paper laid flat.)
– Pounce Tool
– Pounce Blade

• Select POUNCE from the Control Center. The default setting for the Super 88 is OFF.
• Set the SPEED knob to maximum.
• Set the ACCELERATION to 1.0 g’s. You may want to experiment with lower settings. Performance will vary with different paper.
• Turn the FORCE knob to maximum (approximately 200 grams).
• Install the pounce tool and blade the same as you would for a standard knife assembly. Note: The single-button Test Cut will not produce a pounce pattern when pounce is selected.
• Load paper into machine as usual. To use a roll of paper, slide it onto a roller as opposed to placing it on two rollers.
• With the red light ON, press the REPEAT and TEST CUT keys at the same time to produce the Ioline logo as a test cut.
• Increase or decrease the force on the Force Knob as needed for a complete puncture through the paper. If the pounce blade picks up the paper and jams, you may need to set the force and/or acceleration to lower settings.
• The Pouncing feature allows the user to choose the length of the “cut” and the “blank” from the Ioline Control Center. Wider spacing can be appropriate for larger images.

Stencil Cutting (not available with the Classic).

Stencil material (Tag Board) is handled much the same as vinyl with the important exceptio of using much higher force.

• Select TAG BOARD CUTOUT in the Ioline Control Center. This will ready your sign cutter for tag board. A Tag Board Cut is intermittent – a long cut length followed by a short uncut segment. Default lengths are 2.0″ cuts and 0.06″ blanks.
• Load the tag board into the sign cutter as you would any other material. (See LOADING AND ALIGNING THE MATERIAL in your User Guide.)
• Next perform a TEST CUT procedure to establish blade exposure and force settings. Start with the Force knob at maximum (400 grams). Set the Speed at the halfway position. Check that the blade is just even with the foot opening so you will be approaching correct exposure from too little, with no chance of having too much, which could damage the blade.
• The red light must be ON. If not, press Start/Stop to turn it on.
• Press Test Cut. The plotter will trace the test pattern. There will be little or no cutting if the initial foot adjustment was correct. Adjust the foot to expose a little more of the blade. Turn the foot about 1/8th turn upward (from left to right). Press Test Cut.
• Continue increasing the blade exposure and making test cuts. When just enough blade is exposed, the test pattern will completely separate from the surrounding tag board.
• Now perform the FORCE ADJUSTMENT. For 150lb. Tag board, cuts are generally made at or near maximum force (400 grams). You may use this procedure if you want to minimize force, or if you are using a more easily cut material. Turn the force knob down slightly, about one mark, and repeat the test cut. If the test cut does not cut completely, full force should be used. If the test cut is complete, turn the force down again and repeat the test cut. Continue until the cut is incomplete. This indicates that there is not enough force to push the exposed blade fully into the tag board. At this point turn the force up one mark, which will be just enough.
• Verification. Use the two-button test cut to verify the adjustments and do any fine tuning. Press Test Cut and Repeat together. This will cause a 3.5″ x 6.5″ design to be cut, and will use the dashed-line pattern. If the pattern does not separate cleanly, try just a little more blade exposure and a slight increase in force.
• Adjusting the Cut Style. The lengths of the cuts and blanks can be changed to your preference. Refer to the Control Center section located in your user’s guide.

Troubleshooting Chart.

If your system isn’t working correctly, your first job is to figure out which component is causing the problem. The problem could be with your computer, your cable, your sign-making software, or with your sign cutter.

First make sure the cable between the PC and plotter is connected correctly. Make sure the power is on. If the problem is with your computer or your sign-making software, consult your computer or software manuals. If you can’t still solve the problem, call the appropiate manufacturer or dealer. If the problem is with your sign cutter, consult the following Chart:

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

If your cut doesn’t start at the correct point on the material:
Possible Cause	Solution
The start point selected in your software is different than the one you selected on your plotter	Select them so they coincide; usually lower-left (which is on the right side of your plotter ).
You haven’t set the start point	Set the start point
Pressing the Repeat key does not repeat the previous plot:
Possible Cause	Solution
Buffer overflow: File Size exceeds buffer size	See the section titled Operation in your user’s guide, Repeat section
If you’ve sent a plot file, but nothing happens:
Possible Cause	Solution
Your Signcutter is in Stop mode	Press the Start Point key to put your signcutter in Start mode
A communication problem	Perform the diagnostic tests.
If you’ve sent a plot file and the output is erratic:
Possible Cause	Solution
You’ve sent your plot file with the wrong plotter language setting	Make sure correct driver is selected
If the blade tears the material or skips:
Possible Cause	Solution
The blade is dull or broken	Replace the blade
The blade force is set too low	Increase the blade force settings
Dirt or debris is stuck on the blade	Clean or replace the blade
If the corners of the cuts are not completely meeting:
Possible Cause	Solution
The blade is dull or broken	Replace the blade
The material is slipping	Clean the grit shaft
The blade overcut value is set too low	Use a higher blade overcut value
The offset is incorrect	Refer to the Suggested Settings for the type of blade you are using
If you have difficulty weeding the completed sign:
Possible Cause	Solution
The blade is dull or broken	Replace the blade
Not enough force	Increase the force setting
The blade overcut value is set too low	User a higher blade overcut value
The blade offset is incorrect	Refer to the Suggested Settings for the type of blade you are using
Tracking errors:
Possible Cause	Solution
Pinch wheels are positioned on the smooth section of the grith shaft	Move the pinch wheels to a new location
Cutting force is set higher than necessary	Reduce the cutting force to minimize material flexure
Acceleration is set too high	Set the acceleration to .5g
Speed is set too high	Reduce the speed to one-half or less
The material is kinked as it accumulates in front or rear of the signcutter	Make sure the material remains smooth, taut, and square. Allow enough room in the front and rear of the signcutter for the vinyl to move easily
Dirty grit shaft	Clean grit shaft. Refer to the Routine Maintenance section located in your user’s guide.
WHAT THE LIGHTS MEAN
If the front panel red light is blinking once:
Possible Cause	Solution
The grit shaft is jammed	Turn off your signcutter and clear away any debris or jammed material
If the front panel green light is bliking once:
Possible Cause	Solution
The carriage of your signcutter is jammed	Turn off your signcutter and clear away any debris or jammed material
If the fron panel red light is blinking twice:
Possible Cause	Solution
Buffer overflow/communication problem	Perform the diagnostic test.
If the fron panel red and green lights are blinking alternately:
Possible Cause	Solution
Plotter language syntax error	Make sure the correct driver is selected
Bad or corrupted file	Recreate file

Carriage Calibration.

Note: The carriage calibration plot is 15.75″x 1″ (Vinyl size should be at least 20″ x 5″).

• Make sure the plotter is turned on. Get a start point, and open the Ioline control center. If you don’t have the control center, one can be obtained from the Ioline Control Center download web page.
• The knife used should not have a foot on it, if you have an unfooted knife use it. If your knife is footed, remove the foot before starting the plot. (See Fig. 1)
• In the Ioline Control Center, go to the Calibrate menu, and select calibrate plotter.
• In the calibration dialog window (Fig. 2) Press and hold the ALT key On the keyboard, then press the F key and release both keys. A fifth button, Carriage Calibration (Fig. 3), will appear. Press the Carriage Calibration button.
• In the Carriage Calibration dialog window, hit the Calibration Plot button, then OK. The plotter will start to cut out a series of test cuts.
• After the plot is done, you should see 13 test cuts (Fig. 4). Starting at the first square feel along the top and bottom for piercing. Find the first one that doesn’t pierce and weed it all the way. Weed the next two cuts, and look at the backing. Pick the one that has the most even cut in the backing material.
• After you have picked the best cut, use Figure 4 to find the calibration number. Put this number in the field that says Force (Factory default is 45). Press the Set Factory button. Then Done, and Done again. This will put you back in the control centers main screen.
  
  
  
  

Adjustment for scalloping.

Scalloping: When a straight line becomes bumpy or wavy. Or letter thickness is uneven and erratic (See Fig. 5 and Fig. 6).

• • Remove the end covers and the top dust cover.
  • Remove the two screws for the carriage cover (See Fig. 1).
  • UN-Plug the white communication “Ribbon Cable” (This plugs into the carriage at the top).
  • Remove the three screws that hold the main body of the carriage to the machine (see Fig. 2).
  • Loosen (DO NOT Remove) the two screws shown in Fig. 3 (Screws 1, & 2).
  • Push the small silver pin “Out” as shown in Fig. 4 And tighten both screws (WARNING: Do Not over tighten the screws, or put too much outward pressure on the pin).
  • Test the carriage by pushing up and down on the jaw (the piece that holds the knife). The action should be very smooth. If there is any resistance, repeat Steps 5 through 7 until the jaw moves freely.
  • Holding onto the knife, try to move the jaw side to side, and back and forth. Check for any “play” in the assembly. If you feel a “click” or slight movement in the jaw, repeat Steps 5 through 8 until the movement is minimized.
  • To further test the carriage, re-Install the carriage to the plotter (DO NOT over tighten the three screws that mount it to the plotter). Start off by doing a test plot (See Fig. 5 for a comparison). To test it further, run a plot that cuts out letters (sans serif for example) that are ¼” tall.

Note:

• Scalloping can also occur when the media is flexing. Make sure the pinch wheels are placed correctly and the vinyl is centered in the machine (as per the operation manual).

How to Plot from CorelDRAW® 7.

Note: Make sure CorelDRAW!® is open, and the drawing you intend to cut or plot is ready.

• Make sure all of the objects to be plotted/cut, are grouped together and selected. Place the drawing in the lower left corner of the page.
• Go to the file drop-down menu and select EXPORT.
• Name the file, and pick the folder where you want to put the file. Below the file name under Save as type, select HPGL plotter file (PLT) from the drop-down menu. In the bottom right corner, check the box that says Selected only—make sure your drawing has been selected first—and hit the EXPORT button.
• HPGL Export dialog box: Under the PEN tab, make sure all of the pens are Unused. Save those settings in the box marked Pen Libraries.
• Under the Page tab; Plotter origin should be Page Center. Plotter units should read 1013.
• Under the Advanced tab; Curve resolution should read 0.001 Inches. Nothing else should have a check in it.
• Hit the OK button. Your plot file has been saved to the folder, and name of your choice.
• Turn the cutter on, and setup for a new plot. Press the Start Point button. Open the Ioline Control Center.
• Click on the Options drop-down menu, and select the HPGL Setting. Select the Center origin, and click OK. It will ask if the panel size is right, click OK.
• Next, change the panel size to reflect the size of the plot. (For example; If the drawing size in CorelDRAW!® is 100 long by 24 wide, then make the X-axis panel size in the control center 100.0, and make the Y-axis panel size 24.0. Now send the settings to the plotter by clicking on the Temporary button.
• Now, click on File, then Send Cut/Plot file. Find your plot file (the one you saved from CorelDRAW® earlier). Click on it, and click OK. The cutter will now start to plot or cut out the drawing.

Special note: When you send the plot file to the cutter, the first thing it will do is find the center of the page you selected in the control center. For example, if the X-axis panel size is 100″, the first thing the plotter will do is scroll out 50 inches of vinyl, then return to the start and cut out the design.

How to Plot from CorelDRAW!® 9.

Note: Make sure CorelDRAW!® is open, and the drawing you intend to cut or plot is ready to be exported.

• • Make sure all of the objects to be plotted/cut, are grouped together and selected. Make sure your drawing does not have any fills in it, and select the Hairline pen outline for all the objects. (If it doesn’t have an outline, it won’t plot). Place the drawing in the lower left corner of the page.
  • Go to the File drop-down menu and select EXPORT.
  • Name the file, and pick the folder where you want to put that file. Below the file name under Save as type, select HPGL plotter file (PLT) from the drop-down menu. In the bottom right corner check the box that says Selected only—make sure your drawing has been selected first—and hit the EXPORT button.
  • The next window to come up will be the HPGL Export screen. Click on the Page tab, make sure the Plotter Origin has Bottom Left checked. Plotter units should read 1013.
  • Click on the Advanced tab, and make sure none of the boxes are checked. Curve Resolution should read .001 inches. Click OK.
  • Make sure the Ioline cutter is powered on, and is setup with a start point. Open the Ioline Control Center.
  • At the main screen click on the File drop-down menu. Select Send Cut/Plot File.

  In the

Send Cut

• window, locate the file that you named in

Step 3

• , and select it. Then choose

OK

. The plotter should start cutting or plotting if everything was set up right.